MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA
Mouth delighted to find fresh seafood and fine sushi in Cannon Beach
Posted: Thursday, February 7, 2013 8:00 am

I am a coastal native, so please know that when I write this, I write it with love.

When you say the word “sushi” to a local, you’re likely to hear one of two responses: either, “Yes, I LOVE sushi! Name the time and place!” or alternately, “Raw fish? Gross! Eww!” Luckily for me, and the purposes of this review, I am of the former opinion, and I’ve often puzzled over why, living in an area with daily access to fresh seafood, there isn’t more sushi.

Cue John and Sandy Newman, and a restaurant that is revolutionizing the North Coast sushi experience with Fishes Sushi & Japanese Cuisine. Nestled right in the heart of downtown Cannon Beach, Fishes opened in the fall of 2011 and took over a spot that was previously inhabited for 18 years by JP’s, under the ownership of Bill and Diana Pappas. If John and Sandy sound familiar to you, it’s because they also own Newmans at 988, which was named The Daily Astorian’s restaurant of the year in 2006 and is a local mainstay for elegant French-Italian food. Chef John Newman’s culinary experience is impressive and expansive, including working under the renowned Ming Tsai at Silks Restaurant in San Francisco.

On the evening I visited Fishes, the restaurant was packed to the gills. We selected miso soup and edamame to start, standard Japanese fare, akin to a soup and salad in an American restaurant. Both were excellent and sufficiently whetted the appetite for what was to be a night of outstanding sushi.

Next up was a “hot rock,” which is just as it sounds: a rock, heated for several hours in a hot oven, and topped with tuna, salmon and steak. The slabs of fish and steak are searing on the hot rock as the dish is brought to the table, and from there, a diner can choose their level of “doneness.” We sampled each offering mostly raw and were hungry for more.

A seaweed salad arrived next and was a crisp and refreshing, tasting of the sea itself: sweet and salty with a pleasing spike of sesame.

We next chose a few sushi rolls. The spider roll, a type of uramaki sushi, included deep-fried soft-shell crab, avocado and cucumber with sushi rice inside a traditional nori (seaweed) wrap and topped with roe. Paired with the savory blend of soy sauce and spicy wasabi, the roll was perfect; crunchy, chewy and amply sized. A lobster roll was equally as delicious and presented well. A third maki roll of seasonal vegetables was also impeccable and beautifully rolled with avocado slices, which lent the look of green rose petals. Something I love about Japanese cuisine is the attention to the aesthetic element of the presentation; it is a pleasure both to see it and to eat it.

From the sushi and sashimi menu we chose three types of nigiri (a traditional slab of raw fish on white sticky rice): tuna, salmon and unagi eel. I find tuna to be the most flavorful fish in the sushi spectrum, and the version served at Fishes is no exception; for those who are reticent to try raw fish, tuna is an excellent entry point. Salmon is an oilier fish and as such lends a mellow, buttery taste and, to my taste buds, is less “fishy” raw than it is cooked. And though eel can seem especially off-putting to nonsushi eaters, at Fishes it is quite delicious and extremely palatable, with a texture similar to roasted chicken.

A perfect end to the evening arrived in the form of sake sorbet, a sort of shaved ice infused with the traditional Japanese fermented rice wine. Although there are many kinds of sake (and many I don’t care for), this one was very light, crisp and slightly sweet: an ideal palate cleanser for a meal of many flavors.

The restaurant itself feels trendy and hip, upscale and very much in the spirit of Cannon Beach. The menu also includes many items for those who prefer their seafood cooked, including tempura, ramen dishes and teriyaki. I am delighted, though, to find such a fine selection of sushi here on the coast, and I hope that in the future more diners will cast their fears aside and go the way of the (raw) fish.

It’s that time of year again: winter on the Oregon Coast. Each year we take a few weeks off during the slowest months of the year. Beginning Tuesday, January 16 we will close our doors to recoup and refocus as we prepare for another year of business. Be sure to join us on Friday, February 10 as we reopen for our ‘Big Night’ Anniversary event. After that, our schedule will return to normal.

This event has been cancelled. FISHES is opening soon. Visit www.fishes-sushi.com for information and opening dates.

As part of WOW, Cannon Beach’s pre-holiday shopping event, all women diners at Newmans at 988 will receive one free dessert with purchase of an entree.

www.facebook.com/wowcannonbeach

Come celebrate our 6th anniversary with us on February 10, 2012 with a wine dinner served family-style. Call the restaurant at (503) 436.1151 or email reservations@newmansat988.com to reserve your seat.

“Local chef brings a taste of Oregon to the James Beard House.”

It’s 1 p.m. in Manhattan and the lamb’s missing.

Eighty pounds of top-quality meat, UPS’ed from Oregon and slated to hit the plates of 70 hungry diners at the James Beard House at 7 p.m. sharp. And it is nowhere to be found.

What do you do? To read the rest of this article, click here.

Participating chefs included:

Gehrett Billinger of The Astoria Golf & Country Club, Astoria, Oregon
Jonathon Hoffman of Seaing Greens, Cannon Beach, Oregon
Faitha Hearing of FISHES Sushi & Japanese Cuisine, Cannon Beach, Oregon
Tyler Casiano, Oregon pastry chef
Rich Strahley of Mad Boar Restaurant, North Carolina
Alex Newman of Kendall College, Chicago
Edward (EJ) Tipple of Queens, NY
Liz Rubin of Oregon, former intern at The Beard House

The exquisite dinner consisted of ingredients from every part of Oregon. Truffles from Oregon Wild Edibles; organic produce from King Fisher Farms; wine from Walnut City Wineworks, Argyle Wines, and Pelican Pub & Brewery; meat from Meadow Harvest and OK Ranch; cheese from Rogue Creamery, Tumalo Farms, and Mama Terra Micro Creamery; and bottled water from Oregon Rain.

Join the fun at United Way of Clatsop County’s 4th Annual Iron Chef Goes Coastal. Newmans at 988 was chosen for last year’s People’s Choice Award giving Chef John Newman a chance to participate in this year’s Iron Chef event. Order advance tickets at (503) 325.1961 or uwcc@pacifier.com. Doors open at 5:00 pm for the Silent Auction and 6:00 pm for General Admission seating and People’s Choice Tasting. Iron Chef Competition Gong sounds at 7:00 pm.

For more information about this great organization, visit www.clatsopunitedway.org.

This exclusive evening features Oregon chefs showcasing their signature dishes and offering exciting culinary experiences.

The chefs prepare samplings of their favorite dish for guests to savor while enjoying locally produced wine and spirits and bidding on the silent auction. The evening culminates with a live auction of spectacular packages donated by the chefs.

This year’s chefs include:
Michael Conklin, Chefs Co-Chair – Lucy’s Table
Mark Henry, Chefs Co-Chair – Portland Marriott Downtown Waterfront
Aaron Bedard – The Stephanie Inn
Paul Bosch – The Resort at the Mountain
Matt Christianson – Urban Farmer at The Nines
John Newman – Newmans at 988
Shawn Smith – The Portland Spirit
and more…

Visit marchofdimes.com/oregon/3564_27989.asp to purchase tickets and learn more.

Chef John Newman of Newmans at 988 will be catering the judges during the 13th Annual Cape Kiwanda Longboard Classic in Pacific City, Oregon. 120 participants competing in 20 minute heats for 2 consecutive days … you don’t want to miss this fantastic event.